Memories Of Mumbai On A Menu: Aamchee Presents A Culinary Celebration Of The City

Attempting to map the diverse flavours of Mumbai in any form is a challenging task. The ever-extending, ever-evolving city often eludes categorisation. This fluidity is charmingly frustrating and nearly always fascinating to investigate. We recently dined at Aamchee, a vegetarian cafe dedicated to celebrating Mumbai in a nostalgic way. And, in terms of exploring the city’s dynamism, it provided us with much food for thought (as well as consumption, of course). Aamchee was established by Pinky Chandan Dixit, who is also the force behind the legendary restaurant Soam. The Maharashtrian name translates to “ours” and is an endearing epithet often attached to the city (you may come across the words “Amchi Mumbai”).

The cosy cafe tries to map Mumbai on a menu, through classic bites and slightly reinterpreted street-style snacks. At its heart, it’s about spotlightlighting the vibrancy of some of Mumbai’s communities and histories. Certain methods are novel, but the offerings at Aamchee rarely venture into the unfamiliar or the uncomfortably experimental. “While trying to do something different, it is important that we also respect the original. I feel very strongly about this. If I’m recreating a dish, I don’t want to twist it so badly that it loses its essence and flavour,” Pinky tells me. Our experience during the meal would go on to reflect this commitment to balance.

Most of the dishes are either named after or influenced by beloved flavours from different neighbourhoods of the city. There’s a Matunga Rasam, Nariman Chaat Salad, Shivaji Park Veggie Loaded Thaalipeeth and Zaveri Bazaar Makai Upma, to cite a few examples. For someone who has grown up or spent many years in Mumbai, these echoes can be heartwarming. This is also a reflection of Aamchee’s personal rather than collective roots. “For me, food is a memory bank. Some of these dishes have come from there – they are influenced by foods and experiences my team and I had growing up and over the years in Mumbai,” Pinky clarifies.

We started our meal with the Khatta Thela salad, a favourite of the evening. This unique treat pays homage to the decadently sour offerings of handcarts that used to be common outside schools and offices. The zesty flavour in Aamchee’s version is derived from different ingredients, however. “We want to create dishes that are appealing not just once, but repeatedly. They are not meant to compete with other similar dishes but find their own identity,” Pinky explains. Our yummy bowl came loaded with raw mango, raw papaya, dried berries and starfruit, tossed in a light, tangy dressing. We were also surprised to discover small pieces of chikki that brought all the elements together quite well.

We also tried Aamchee’s take on the city’s famous street food: the Vada Pav Sliders. The snack is elegantly alongside four spicy condiments (chilli pickle, lehsun thecha, peri peri, hirva thecha) for each corresponding portion. We liked the melt-in-the-mouth softness of the sliders, but as native Mumbaikars, we couldn’t help but crave more spiciness.

Among the small plates, the Dal Tikki Chaat did better justice to its street origins. Inspired by the chole tikki of Chembur Sindhi camp, it was a flavour-packed indulgence (as chaats should be). Next, we went with rather a novel option: Aam Papad Dahi Kebabs. The kebabs were on the lighter, airier side and enclosed a piece of the tangy fruit candy in the centre.

As we binged, we sipped on the cooling Kokum Spritzer and Spicy Pomegranate Paloma. Aamchee has classic coffee, tea and milkshake options too. For a quintessential Bombay experience, you might want to go for the Irani chai. But if you’re looking for something cold, we highly recommend the Slushies – specifically the Kala Khatta flavour. We decimated our glass as we walked down memory lane, thinking of beach outings and vacation days spent slurping tangy, icy golas in our childhood.

Aamchee’s location accentuates its charm. From the arched windows, you can spy part of the Girgaum Chowpatty beach in the distance. Inside, the ambience aims to capture the nostalgic allure of Bombay, with high ceilings, intricately patterned tiles, vintage wooden jalis, and green additions that are meant to recall iconic gardens around the city. The decor and menu also have echoes of the old-world gymkhana and club settings, Pinky tells me. They may now be mainly associated with the Mumbai (or Bombay) of a bygone era, but that only aligns with the theme. While the ambience is a credit to the talent of Salonee Kothari of Studio SKO, the wallpapers are designed by Krsnaa Mehta of India Circus and there is also creative artwork by Mena Malgavkar.

For the main course, Aamchee spoils you for choice, with dishes ranging from local favourites like Varan Bhaat and Sindhi Sai Bhaji Meal to cafe classics like Mac and Cheese and Khow Suey. We enjoyed the Aamchee Thecha Rolls with Misal. Instead of the regular pav, the spicy curry-like delicacy was paired with a flaky roll infused with green thecha. It introduced us to a unique new pairing that was actually tasty. If you want less chatpata but still wholesome, the Sion da Stuffed Paratha might do the trick. Choose between home-style aloo (potato) or paneer parathas, served with flavoured butter, pickle and boondi raita.

When it comes to dessert, Aamchee’s range does not disappoint either. Nearly every option seemed to spell indulgence and comfort. We savoured a creamy and loaded Kulfi Falooda, which is an ode to the Crawford Market version. We took our time relishing the combination of malai kulfi, rabdi, vermicelli strands, nuts and rose syrup, sabja, as we watched the sunset infuse the sky and sea with bright colours outside the window.

Where: Soni Building, Dadi Sheth Wadi, Malabar Hill, Mumbai.